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Today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is
one of the most famous watches ever produced, but were you aware that the
company got its start producing ebauches for other companies? A little known
fact about Jaeger-LeCoultre is that in addition to producing movements for its
own watches, the company has also produced movements for famous watch houses
such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and IWC. As a matter of fact, in
the early part of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied ebauches to
the great firm of Patek Philippe. Then as now, Jaeger-LeCoultre was considered
one of the finest watchmakers in Switzerland.
The year was 1833 when
thirty-year-old Antoine LeCoultre, son of Vallee de Joux watchmaker Jacques
LeCoultre, opened a small factory in the town of Le Sentier. Amazingly enough,
the current Jaeger-LeCoultre factory is only a few feet away from the site of
the original factory. In any event, LeCoultre soon proved himself to be a gifted
watchmaker, but an even more brilliant inventor. In 1844, LeCoultre
revolutionized the watch industry with the invention of the millionometer, an
instrument with which measurements of up to one thousandths of a millimeter
could be made accurately. As a result, precisely finished components could be
manufactured, resulting in greatly improved accuracy in timekeeping. Likewise,
the metric system became the universal measuring standard in watchmaking, while
other systems were rendered obsolete.
LeCoultre's motto -- "we must base
our experience on science" - was particularly true when it came to manufacturing
precision movements and tools. The artistry came later at the hands of a master
watchmaker, who assembled, decorated and regulated the movements. In short
order, LeCoultre became the leading supplier of movements, parts and tools to
the watchmaking industry in Switzerland.
LeCoultre movements were so
highly regarded, in fact, that until 1910, the company provided Patek Philippe
with most of its raw movements. It was only in later years that Patek Philippe
built its own movements from scratch. In the meantime, other companies had come
to rely exclusively on LeCoultre's products, from which they would create
finished watches. LeCoultre's success was so great that between 1900 and 1919,
40,000 raw movements were produced. Movements sold for between 100 and 400
francs each, not an inconsiderable sum of money back then.
In 1925, the
grandson of the firm's founder, David LeCoultre, merged his company with that of
Edmond Jaeger, the exclusive supplier of watch movements to Cartier. This is
when the modern company known as Jaeger-LeCoultre first came into existence.
Incredibly enough, up to this point, Jaeger-LeCoultre had not sold any watches
under its own name. The merger, however, prompted further technical innovations,
not the least of which was a case made from stainless steel, as well as the
creation of the smallest mechanical movement in the world, which weighed less
than one gram.
The year 1931 saw the introduction of the Reverso, a
wristwatch that could be turned 180 degrees within the case, thereby protecting
the crystal and dial. It was a fantastic creation and one that was
enthusiastically received by the public. Unfortunately, the worldwide economic
crisis and World War II conspired to prevent the Reverso from achieving its full
potential. Changing fashions coupled with the advent of waterproof watches might
have forever doomed the watch to obscurity, had it not been for an Italian
dealer who visited the factory in the 1960's and noticed a number of unused
Reverso cases sitting in a watchmakers' drawer. The Italian dealer bought the
cases and fitted them with movements. The finished watches were an instant
sell-out and the rest is history. Today, the Reverso is by far
Jaeger-LeCoultre's most popular model.
Another interesting story
concerns David LeCoultre's bid for Patek Philippe. In 1932, Patek Philippe was
in major financial straits and looking for a white knight. LeCoultre, whose
company manufactured movements for Patek, wanted to acquire a majority interest.
He came close to finalizing a deal, but the Stern brothers, whose company
supplied the dials used in Patek Philippe watches, ultimately acquired the
company. Although Patek Philippe has certainly prospered under the Stern
family's management, it is nonetheless interesting to contemplate what effect a
Patek Philippe/Jaeger-LeCoultre merger may have had on the Swiss watch industry.
Needless to say, the company has continued to thrive, introducing such
innovations as the Memovox, Futurematic, Atmos Clock (which in and of itself
could be the subject of an article) and strikingly original movements such as
the world's thinnest automatic with a thickness of just 2.35 mm, just to name a
few. The thin automatic movement in particular was an incredible success, as
both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet featured it in wristwatches
advertised as being the world's slimmest self-winding timepieces. During the
1970's and early 1980's, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced a 36 jewel, self-winding
calibre for Patek Philippe. Once again, both companies had come full circle.
On a final note, it is worth noting that Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the
few companies in Switzerland that still produces its own movements, cases,
dials, hands, and bracelets. Virtually every single component in a
Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is hand-finished, produced in-house, and this in turn
results in strict quality control. As a result, Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are
recognized as being among the very finest hand-crafted watches available and
evidence of this can be seen in the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre regularly
produces such masterpieces as the Reverso Tourbillon and Reverso Minute
Repeater. There is also the Master Control series of watches, which boast 1,000
hours of testing and assembly at the patient hands of a master watchmaker.
In any event, if you are contemplating the purchase of a
Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch, you've made an excellent choice. It's a highly
prestigious and respected brand with a long and wonderful history, as well as a
proven track record.
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